Tien Shan: Pobeda peak climbing. 27 days, from Bishkek.

See also: Pobeda peak climbing. 29 days, from Almaty.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal Too range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: extremely difficult (5B UIAA), need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. Warning! The route is potentially very dangerous, mainly due to weather conditions and high altitudes (temperatures below -30 °C, hurricane winds, long staying at the altitudes above 7,000 m)!
Season: July-August. Best time- July, 25- August, 20.
Dates of helicopter flights to/from Karkara BC: July, 9; 12; 14; 17; 20; 21; 22; 23; 26; 28; 29; 30 August, 01, 03; 04; 05; 06; 07; 09; 11; 12; 13; 17; 18; 20; 22; 26; 27. BC will operate since July, 01 to August, 31 (Note: this information might be subject to change!)

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. Pobeda peak (7,439 m) is the highest summit of this land. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The northern steep slopes of Pobeda peak is covered with great amounts of ice and snow and formes a giant wall above 7,000 m high and 4 km long. Practically uninterrupted strong winds which raise snowstorms make the climbing really extreme adventure. It is said that the ascent of Pobeda Peak can be compared with the conquest of Everest from the northern side. The most difficult routes (as well as the 1st ascent route in 1956, leader - V.M. Abalakov) lie on the center of northern wall of Pobeda and from her east spurs, but the ascents usually are accomplished along the most safe way - over Vaja Pshavela (West Pobeda) peak from the Dikiy pass. We offer the climbing by this relatively safe route with acclimatization ascent to Khan Tengri Camp 2 at 5300 m. All the participants who will succesfuly climbed the Pobeda peak will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Acclimatization day. Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to BC (30 min, about 4,000 m) on the left-side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 4, 5	Acclimatization days.
Day 6	Acclimatization day. Preparations for climbing (1st acclimatization ascent), consultations.
Day 7	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier. Placing the Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier.
Day 8	Climbing up the Semenov glacier up to Camp 2 at 5,300 m or Camp-3 at 5,900 m (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak). Note. Alternatively, you can climb Northern Dikiy or Dikiy passes for acclimatization.
Day 9	Descent down to BC.
Day 10	Day of rest.
Day 11	Day of rest. Preparations for climbing (assault attempt).
Day 12	Trekking (about 15 km) along the S. Inilchek and Zvezdochka glaciers to the pedestal of Northern Wall and Dikiy pass.
Day 13	Climbing up (ice climbing through icefall) the Dikiy pass (5,200 m).
Days 14, 15	Climbing the West Pobeda (6,918 m) along the nothern spur. Placing the assault camp at 7,000 m.
Day 16	Assault ascent along the Western ridge (4 km traverse). Return to assault camp.
Days 17, 18	Descent to BC, rest.
Days 19-24	Extra days for the case of bad weather.
Day 25	Helicopter flight to Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (***, DBL BB).
Day 26	Free day in Bishkek. Overnight at hotel.
Day 27	Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, etc. Other (harder) option for acclimatization is climbing not Khan Tengri up to Camp-5900 but the exact route on Pobeda up to 6400 m.

Costs (variant 1, full package): $2250 per person (1 pax+). This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off, transfers in Bishkek, Bishkek - Karkara, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (1 night), all permits and local fees, lodge and tent accommodation and full board meals at BCs, lunch box on the way to/from Karkara BC, hot shower and sauna in BCs, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers.

Cost (variant 2, light package): $1300
Included: helicopter flight Karkara BC-glacial BC and return (30 kg free of charge, $4 each extra kg), climbing consultations, medical consultations, rescue rangers team registration, ecology fee for BC site, long-distance radio telecommunication service, all permits, OVIR registration.

Cost (variant 3, guided package): Guided climbing (4-6 pax): for an offer! Smaller and bigger (up to 15 pax.) groups on prior agreement. Discounts for large groups are available. This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off, transfers in Bishkek, Bishkek - Karkara, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (1 night), all permits and local fees, lodge and tent accommodation and full board meals at BCs, lunch box on the way to/from Karkara BC, hot shower in BCs, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, climbing guide service.

Not included (all variants): Visa support (note: most industrial states citizens don't need visa invitation to Kyrgyzstan), travel to and from Bishkek, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Almaty. The climbing of Pobeda peak may be combined with climbing the Khan Tengri peak. Transfer to and from Bishkek and Almaty, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), single supplement, transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas refueling, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, special food for climbing (ask for the list!).