Muztag Ata (Muztagh Ata, Muztagata), Kongur and Koshkulak peaks climbing. 25/21/23 days, from Bishkek, Kashgar or Urumqi.

Region: China, Pamir, Xinjiang
Activity: mountaineering expedition, ski mountaineering
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult (5A UIAA), need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August. Fixed departures Muztag Ata: June, 28 - July, 22; (Bishkek-Bishkek, 25 days), optionally to/from Kashgar or Urumqi; other dates in July-August are possible upon request for groups: for an offer.
Special offer: Lenin peak + Muztag Ata peaks expedition June, 28 - July, 31 (Bishkek-Bishkek). for an offer!

Recommended expansion: 1-week Ala-Archa pre-departure acclimatization trip (for Bishkek-Bishkek itinerary).

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population. The highest summit of entire Pamir is Muztag Ata peak (7,547 m).

Muztag Ata (or Muztagata, Muztagh Ata, Mustagata, Muztaghata) is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Sinkiang (Xinjiang) Province of China. In Uygur language "Muztagh Ata" means "The father of icy mountains". It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. About 100 miles to the North is the mysterious city of Kashgar. The snowy slopes of Muztag Ata rise from a remote corner of the Central Asian Plateau, and the easiest approaches here is via the famous Karakoram Highway. The only settlements in the area lie along the highway while nomadic Kyrgyz people roam the vast plains with their camels and horses.

For the 1st time it gained the attention of climbers in 1891 when Sven Hedin, famous Swedish explorer, made an unsuccessful attempt.

At 7,546 m (24,757 ft) Muztag Ata is perhaps the highest mountain suitable for ski mountaineering in the world. Of course, its early pioneers did not have skis and deep snow thwarted early attempts on it, including one by Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman in 1947. They ploughed a furrow to within 70 meters of the summit before being turned back. It was 1st climbed in 1956 by a large Chinese-Russian expedition, which placed total 31 climbers on the summit. Three years later even this success was topped when 33 members of a Chinese expedition climbed it, 8 of whom were women. The first ski ascent of Muztag Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette.

For the 1st time Muztag Ata looks like dome with easy gentle slopes, but it is regarded as an excellent high altitude climb included few technical problems. The average temperature over 7200 m can be as low as -20°C (the lowest was -30°C ). The best season for climbing is June- August and 1st half of September. The position of the Muztag Ata is longitude 75.1° E and 38.5° N. As usual, you need to establish 3 high altitude camps above 5000 m. Vertical distance is 3100 m. Grade is Russian (UIAA) 5A.

If you come from America or Far East, we recommend you begin end end your journey in Beijing or Urumqi. From Europe it would be better to begin from Bishkek (the capital of Kyrgyzstan). The final destination is Mustagh Ata basecamp, which is best reached from Kashgar City, in Xinjiang Province, China.

Another objective could be Koskulak peak (7028 m) which is situated just in 3 km to the South from Muztag Ata peak. It becomes popular only in the past few years. There is a plenty of climbing routes of different grades there (see photos with routes here). The approaches to Koskulak are almost the same as for Muztag Ata.
Next, now you can try Kongur Tube (Kongurtube) Peak - the 2nd highest summit of entire Pamir area - 7530 m!

Itinerary (Variant 1, 25 days from Bishkek):

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel ** (DBL BB or optional SGL), rest. Transfer Bishkek - Narin, yurt or guest house (GH) accommodation.
Day 2	Trahsfer Narin- Torugart pass. Crossing the Chinese border. Meeting with your Chinese guide. Transfer to Kashgar (3 hrs). Hotel accommodation (***DBL FB).
Day 3	Transfer Kashgar-Subashi (bus, 200 km, 4-5 hrs). Drive along the Karakoram Highway for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez river to the shore of Karakuri Lake at 3,900 m, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pastures. Yurt or tents accommodation FB.
Day 4	Camel caravan to Muztag Ata BC. 1st, drive 10 km to Subashi, wait for the caravan and trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to Muztag Ata Base Camp (BC), approximately a 4-hour walk (Incl: BLD) .
Days 5-20	Climbing activity. FB in BC.
Day 21	Camel caravan back to Subashi. Transfer Subashi-Kashgar. Hotel accommodation (***DBL FB).
Day 22.	City tour at Kashgar, last day of the expedition. Tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar (local market), the famous Id Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uygur-styled homes. Visit of the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters. Hotel accommodation (***DBL FB). Note. You can change the cititour with 1 day yurt (traditional nomadic dwelling) stay in Subashi.
Day 23	Transfer Kashgar- Torugart pass- Naryn. Yurt or GH accommodation (FB).
Day 24	Transfer Naryn-Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (GH DBL BB).
Day 25	Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Costs (full package, no group size limit!): for an offer

Included: visa support for China, visa registration, meeting/seen off and transfers in Bishkek, transfer Bishkek - Naryn - Torugart Pass - Kashgar - Subashi and back, camel caravan and porters for carrying the gear to Muztag Ata BC and return (1 camel carries 80 kg for 2 persons), food on Subashi- BC trek and on return, GH DBL FB accommodation in Bishkek, GH or yurt in Naryn FB and Kashgar ***DBL FB, all permits and local fees, service in BC FB (2-persons tents accommodation, dining tent and kitchen utensil, cook service, 3 time a day hot meals), all the local staff (incl. liaison officer) supply (meals, wages, insurance, gear), city tour (transfers, tickets, guide) in Kashgar (may be changed for your wish with 1-day yurt stay in Subashi), guide-interpreter for the entire trip.
Not included: Travel to and from Bishkek, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters.

Cost (all inclusive full guided climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide and expedition leader, BC-Camp 1- BC porterage, climbing food and fuel .

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Kashgar. Hotel accommodation in Bishkekt (from * to *****), additional days and excursions in Bishkek and Kashgar, SGL accommodation, climbing guide and climbing porters service, radio communications (walkie-talkie), gasoline and butane gas for stoves, special climbing food supply, gear rental, additional days in BC, 2 summits climbing: Lenin Peak (7134 m) + Muztag Ata, 1 week pre-departure acclimatization tour in Ala Archa gorge near Bishkek (recommended).

Itinerary (Variant 2, 21 days from Kashgar):

Costs (full package, no group size limit!): for an offer

Included: visa support for China, visa registration, transfer Kashgar - Subashi-Kashgar, camel caravan and porters for carrying the gear to Muztag Ata BC and return (1 camel carries 80 kg for 2 persons), food on Subashi- BC trek and on return, hotel accommodation in Kashgar ***DBL FB, all permits and local fees, service in BC FB (2-persons tents accommodation, dining tent and kitchen utensil, cook service, 3 time a day hot meals), all the local staff (incl. liaison officer) supply (meals, wages, insurance, gear), city tour (transfers, tickets, guide) in Kashgar (may be changed for your wish with 1-day yurt stay in Subashi), guide-interpreter for the entire trip.
Not included: Travel to and from Kashgar, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters.

Cost (all inclusive full guided climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide and expedition leader, BC-Camp 1- BC porterage, climbing food and fuel.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Urumqi. SGL accommodation, climbing guide and climbing porters service, radio communications (walkie-talkie), gasoline and butane gas for stoves, special climbing food supply, gear rental, additional days in BC.

Itinerary (Variant 3, 22 days from Urumqi):

Costs (full package, no group size limit!): for an offer

Included: visa support, visa registration, meeting/seen off and transfers in Urumqi, flight Urumqi-Kashgar, transfer Kashgar - Subashi, camel caravan and porters for carrying the gear to Muztag Ata BC and return (1 camel carries 80 kg for 2 persons), food on Subashi- BC trek and on return, ** DBL BB hotel accommodation in Urumqi and Kashgar, all permits and local fees, service in BC FB (2-person tents accommodation, dining tent and kitchen utensil, cook service, 3 time a day hot meals), all the local staff (incl. liaison officer) supply (meals, wages, insurance, gear), city tour (transfers, tickets, guide) in Kashgar (may be changed for your wish with 1-day yurt stay in Subashi) and Urumqi, guide-interpreter Kashgar-Kashgar.
Not included: Travel to and from Urumqi, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters.

Cost (full guided climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide and expedition leader, BC-Camp 1- BC porterage, climbing food and fuel.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Beijing. Hotel accommodation in Beijing (from * to *****), SGL accommodation, transfers and excursions in Beijing, climbing guide and porters service, radio communications (walkie-talkie), gasoline and butane gas for stoves, gear rental, additional days in BC.

Note. For full guided all inclusive climbing we recommend Bishkek-Bishek Var. 1 option.

Ala-Archa acclimatization trip (recommended)

Day 1. Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to the hotel (you can leave extra gear here). Transfer to Ala-Archa mountain base. Shale accommodation (DBL BB);
Day 2. Ascent to Ratzeka Hut. Tent accommodation.
Day 3. Climbing of Uchitel (The Teacher) peak, Descent to Ratzeka.
Days 4-6. Climbing up Aksai Glacier. Attempt on 2nd Tower of Korona Peak. Descent to Ratzeka.
Day 7. Descent to Ala Archa. Transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (DBL BB).

For Ala-Archa info please have a look here.

Cost: us for an offer!
Included: Meeting at airport, transfer airport-hotel- Ala Archa and Ala Archa- hotel (car or minibus), 1 night shale accommodation in Ala Archa (DBL BB), 3 times a day hot meals on climbing, tent and rope rental, climbing guide, porter to carry the gear from Ala Archa to Ratzeka and back.