Tien Shan: Two summits: Marble Wall and Khan Tengri. 30 days, from Almaty.

See also: Marble Wall climbing

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Meridional and Tengritag ranges
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: special
Difficulty: difficult (5B UIAA), need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

Marble Wall peak is situated at the altitude of 6,400 m above the sea level, and belonged to Meridionalny (Meridional) Range mountain system, at the Kazakhstan-Chinese border. No climbing is conducted right along the wall due to frequent icefalls. The peak was named because of it's marble outcrop. It is not much snow in winter there because it is blown away by the northeastern wind. Daytime temperature in summer at the altitude of 2000 m is reaches +24...+26°C. At night the temperature falls down to +5...+8°C. The Marble Wall glacier is a source of two small rivers: Ashi-Tor and Kesken-Tas, further confluence of which forms the river of Bayankol, flowing to the North. The Base Camp was named after the river.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from North Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering, a bit more difficult than from South side) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended.

All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Marble Wall and Khan Tengri peaks will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Base Camp (BC) Karkara (290 km, 2200 m). Accommodation in comfortable double-covered tents for 2-3 persons or in the tents for one for individual clients. 3 hot meals daily, showers and toilet facilities.
Days 2,3	Acclimatization day. Recommended climbing of neighbour Bas Karkara peak (4059 m).
Day 4	Helicopter flight up to Bayankol Base Camp (3300 m) - 35 min.
Day 5	Hiking from the BC across the Keskentas River and approach the beginning of Bayankolski and Marble Wall Glaciers (5 hrs). Overnight in tents at Camp 1 (3400 m). See climbing map.
Day 6	Acclimatization. Hiking from Marble Wall glacier to the starting point of the route opposite Pogranichnik (Frontier Guard) Mountain (5258 m). Overnight in tents at Camp II (4600 m).
Day 7	Climbing up two slopes (about 40°, length 200-250 m, 25-30 m along the ice), then small ice wall (about 40°, length 20-30 m). Ascent to the summit of Pogranichnik Mountain (5258 m). Descent down to Camp1 (3400 m).
Day 8	Rest day.
Day 9	Ascent to Camp II (4600 m).
Day 10	Ascent to the summit of Pogranichnik Mountain, overnight in tent at Camp III (5258 m).
Day 11	Proceed along the right slope to the flat ground, then a climb of 30°-50° , about 300 m leading to the ice wall (15°, 30 m). A sandy path (40°, 15-20 m) leads to a sharp incline of 100 m ending at the plateau (6146 m). Overnight in tents (Camp IV).
Day 12	Climbing along the slope (200 m) leading to the rocky wall (40°-50°, 25-30 m). Then along the snow-covered ground towards another steep rocky slope. It should be passed on the left side, the proceed to the Marble Wall through the rocky field. Summit Marble Wall, then return to the last overnight stay (Camp IV, 6146 m).
Day 13	Descent through Peak Plateau in south direction to North Inylchek Glacier (on the way descent through the ice wall of 200 m, 45°). Overnight to Glacier North Inylchek (4600 m).
Day 14	Walking along North Inylchek Glacier to the Base Camp ''Khan Tengri'' (4100 m).
Day 15	Rest in base camp.
Days 16-24	Climbing by the classical route to Khan Tengri (7010 m), descending to Base Camp ''Northern Inylchek''. See here for the details.
Days 25-27	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 28	Helicopter flight to BC ''Karkara'' (about 35 min).
Day 29	Drive to Almaty. Overnight in hotel.
Day 30	Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights shedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost: please for the offer.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek. Transfer to and from Almaty from Bishkek, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, medical service in BCs, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas refueling, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs , special food for climbing (ask for the list!).