Lenin and Muztag Ata peaks climbing. 34/45 days, from Bishkek

Regions: Kyrgyzstan, China, Pamir.
Activity: mountaineering expedition, ski mountaineering
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August.
Fixed departures: June, 28 - July, 31 (Var. 2) from/to Bishkek. Standart or full inclusive options. for an offer!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population. The highest summit of entire Pamir is Muztag Ata peak (7,547 m).

The ice wall of Lenin Peak (7,134 m high, other name is Kuh-i-Garmo) is unforgettable scenery seen after you reach the Alaisky valley with very rare summer settlements of local herders ("jailau"). Visiting these settlements makes interesting social experience. The climbing of Lenin Peak from North (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and recommended as preparation to climb much difficult peaks (Communism, Pobeda, Khan-Tengri) due to very few technical climbing is involved but you can obtain excellent high-altitude acclimatization. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Lenin peak will be awarded with special diploma. Take a look at the route description.

Muztag Ata is an isolated massif rising from the western end of the Takla Makan Desert in the Sinkiang (Xinjiang) Province of China. In Uygur language "Muztagh Ata" means "The father of icy mountains". It lies in the hub of the great mountain ranges of Asia, with the Karakoram to the south, the Pamir to the west and the Kun Lun and Tien Shan to the north. About 100 miles to the North is the misterious city of Kashgar. The snowy slopes of Muztag Ata rise from a remote corner of the Central Asian Plateau, and the easiest approache here is via the famous Karakoram Highway. The only settlements in the area lie along the highway while nomadic Kyrgyz people roam the vast plains with their camels and horses.

At 7,546 m (24,757 ft) Muztag Ata is perhaps the highest mountain suitable for ski mountaineering in the world. Of course, its early pioneers did not have skis and deep snow thwarted early attempts on it, including one by Eric Shipton and Bill Tillman in 1947. They ploughed a furrow to within 70 metres of the summit before being turned back. It was 1st climbed in 1956 by a large Chinese-Russian expedition, which placed total 31 climbers on the summit. Three years later even this success was topped when 33 members of a Chinese expedition climbed it, 8 of whome were women. The first ski ascent of Muztag Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette.

For the 1st time Muztag Ata looks like dome with easy gentle slopes, but it is regarded as an excellent high altitute climb included few technical problems. The average temperature over 7200 m can be as low as -20°C (the lowest was -30°C ). The best season for climbing is June- August and 1st half of September. The position of the Muztag Ata is longitude 75.1° E and 38.5° N. As usual, you need to establish 3 high altitude camps above 5000 m. Vertical distance is 3100 m. Grade is Russian (UIAA) 5A.

Consecutive climbing of Lenin peak then Muztag Ata peak is perfect adventure based on an idea of getting acclimatisation and training on Lenin peak then climbing higher peak.

Another objective in China could be Koskulak peak (7028 m) which is situated just in 3 km to the South from Muztag Ata peak. It becomes popular only in the past few years. There is a plenty of climbing routes of different grades there (see photos with routes here). The approaches to Koskulak are almost the same as for Muztag Ata. If weather (and God!) permits you can do 3 7000+ summits at once!

We offer 2 programs: Variant 1 is 45 days long and includes enough spare days for increasing the chances for success. Variant 2 is reduced for 35 days taking into account that Lenin peak is using as acclimatization summit for Muztag- for those who have a time as a most limited factor.

Itinerary Variant 1 (45 days):

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkekt. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel ** (DBL BB or optional SGL).
Day 2	Flight Bishkek - Osh, meeting at airport, hotel accommodation ** BB.
Day 3	Trahsfer Osh-Achik-Tash (the base camp on 3500 m aka "Onion Glade"), about 10 hrs drive on Pamirsky Trakt (Pamir Highway), high pass - 3615 m - en route. You make a stop for lunch in intermediate base "Taldyk" on Pamir Highway, we serve a variety of meals and drinks in a yurt (Kyrgyz national dwelling) which makes your trip less tiring! Tent accommodation (2 persons tents) at BC.
Day 4	Preparation day. Acclimatization ascent on Petrovskogo peak (4700 m) or Travellers Pass (4150 m) - recommended. Tent accommodation at BC.
Day 5	Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4400 m) through Travellers' Pass (4150 m), about 5 hrs. Tent accommodation (2-persons tent) in ABC (4200 m).
Day 6	Climb to the Camp-2. 5300 m. Steep ice slope, crevasses, then traverse to so-called "Skovorodka" (flat area).
Day 7	Climb to the Camp-3. 6100 m, via the spur and Peak Razdelnaya (6200 m).
Day 8	Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation.
Day 9	Descent to the base camp 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 10	Day of rest. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 11	Preparations for climbing (assault attempt). Tent accommodation in BC.
Days 12-14	Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4200 m, tent accommodation), Camp-2 (5300 m) and Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 15	Ascent of the summit 7134 m . Along the narrow ridge to the "Knife" (steep ice spur with fixed ropes), then on the rocky ridge to the plateau (6900-7000 m) and to the summit. Descent to the Camp-3 reverse way.
Day 16	Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation in ABC.
Day 17	Descent to the base camp. 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Days 18,19	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 20	Transfer to Osh (lunch stop in "Taldyk" intermediate yurt camp). Hotel accommodation ** BB. Optional excursion to holy Sulaimon Hill and cave museum.
Day 21	Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 22	Transfer Bishkek - Narin, yurt or guest house (GH) accommodation.
Day 23	Trahsfer Narin- Torugart pass. Crossing the Chinese border. Meeting with your Chinese guide. Transfer to Kashgar (3 hrs). Hotel accommodation (***DBL FB).
Day 24	Transfer Kashgar-Subashi (bus, 200 km, 4-5 hrs), then camel caravan to Muztag Ata BC. Drive along the Karakoram Highway for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez river to the shore of Karakuri Lake at 3,900 m, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pasturage. Here the camel caravan get start. Then drive 10 km to Subashi, wait for the caravan and trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to Muztag Ata Base Camp (BC), approximately a 4-hour walk (Incl: BLD) .
Days 25-40	Climbing activity. Full board in BC.
Day 41	Camel caravan back to Subashi. Transfer Subashi-Kashgar. Hotel accommodation. Incl. BLD.
Day 42	City tour at Kashgar, last day of the expedition. Tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar (local market), the famous Id Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uygur-styled homes. Visit of the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters (DBL BB)
Day 43	Transfer Kashgar- Torugart pass- Naryn. Yurt or GH accommodation (FB).
Day 44	Transfer Naryn-Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (GH DBL BB).
Day 45	Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Note: for fixed departure, no group size limit! For on-demand departure: minimum 4 people.

Itinerary Variant 2 (34 days):

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel ** (DBL BB or optional SGL), rest. Transfer Bishkek - Narin, yurt or guest house (GH) accommodation.
Day 2	Trahsfer Narin- Torugart pass. Crossing the Chinese border. Meeting with your Chinese guide. Transfer to Kashgar (3 hrs). Hotel accommodation (***DBL FB).
Day 3	Transfer Kashgar-Subashi (bus, 200 km, 4-5 hrs). Drive along the Karakoram Highway for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez river to the shore of Karakuri Lake at 3,900 m, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pastures. Yurt or tents accommodation FB.
Day 4	Camel caravan to Muztag Ata BC. 1st, drive 10 km to Subashi, wait for the caravan and trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to Muztag Ata Base Camp (BC), approximately a 4-hour walk (Incl: BLD) .
Day 5	Acclimatization. Preparations for the climbing at BC. FB.
Day 6	Acclimatization. Preparations for the climbing at BC. FB.
Day 7	Muztagh Ata Base Camp (4450 m) - Camp 1 (5350 m). After some rest and passive acclimatization we are ready to ascent to Camp 3. In order to accomplish the ascent to the peak we have to use the system of 3 high-altitude camps. So, let’s start! Today you will ascent from Muztagh Ata Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). There is a good trail along the ridge of the rocky mountainside to ascent. Usually there is no snow at the mountainside (up to 5000 m), thus, it is possible to wear trekking shoes for this part of the route. Camp 1 is situated in a snowy zone open to winds, therefore, it would be better to dig the tents around and to put a snow wall around as well. It will prevent your tent from being damaged or blown away. Overnight in Camp 1 for better acclimatization.
Day 8	Camp 1 - Base Camp. Descent to the BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 9	Base Camp - Camp 1. Along the familiar path we ascent from the Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). Overnight in Camp 1.
Day 10	Camp 1 (5200 m) - Camp 2 (6200 m). Today we are in for the ascent from Camp 1 (5200 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m). Distinctive feature of this part of the route is walking through the icefall. There are many visible and invisible crevasses in the icefall. They are usually well marked, but early in the season and after a fresh snow fall, be very careful. Sometimes there are quite steep snow and ice walls along the trail. We recommend you to take ascenders, snowshoes and crampons. Picturesque views of the valley and the Karakoram highway won’t leave anyone indifferent.
Day 11	Camp 2 (6200 m) - Camp 3 (6800 m). Ascent from Camp 2 (6200 m) to Camp 3 (6800 m). This part is a wide snow and ice ridge. In the beginning of the route there are some hidden crevasses. General direction of our passage is to the north-east. Here it is better not to deviate to the left of the ridge as it can be dangerous.
Day 12	Camp 3 (6800 m) - Base Camp (4450 m).
Day 13	Rest day in BC.
Day 14	Base Camp - Camp 1. Ascent from Base Camp (4450 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).
Day 15	Camp 1 - Camp 2. Ascent from Camp 1 (5350 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m).
Day 16	Camp 2 - Camp 3. Ascent from Camp 2 (6200 m) to Camp 3 (6800 m).
Day 17	Camp 3 (6800 m) - the summit of Peak Muztagh Ata (7546 m) - Camp 2 (6200 m). Today you are about to accomplish the ascent to the peak, that is to reach the ultimate goal of you coming to Muztagh Ata! So, we have an early morning today as the peak is waiting for us! We start at 5-6 in the morning. The ascent to the peak is done through a wide and gentle snowy ridge. Here you will feel the altitude. And it’s a real luck that we didn’t forget to take with us our snowshoes and skis! And finally, here it is - the Peak! The entire Kunlun is at your feet! The highest point - Muztagh Ata peak is a small “island” of black rocks; behind it steep slopes gradually go down to the north, towards the Koksel glacier. Useful hint: if there is bad weather and low visibility don’t risk without a need. In the end good alpinist is alive one! Anyway, you can reach the peak on the other day. Overnight in Camp 2.
Day 18	Camp 2 - Base Camp. Descent from Camp 2 (6200 m) to Base Camp (4450 m).
Days 19,20	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 21	Camel caravan back to Subashi. Transfer Subashi-Kashgar. Hotel accommodation. Incl. BLD.
Day 22	Transfer Kashgar - Irkeshtam - Base Camp (3600 m) under the Lenin peak (Kyrgyzstan).
Day 23	Rest day in BC.
Day 24	Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4400 m) through Travellers' Pass (4150 m), about 5 hrs. Tent accommodation (2-persons tent) in ABC (4200 m).
Day 25	Climb to the Camp-2. 5300 m. Steep ice slope, crevasses, then traverse to so-called "Skovorodka" (flat area).
Day 26	Climb to the Camp-3. 6100 m, via the spur and Peak Razdelnaya (6200 m).
Day 27	Ascent of the summit 7134 m . Along the narrow ridge to the "Knife" (steep ice spur with fixed ropes), then on the rocky ridge to the plateau (6900-7000 m) and to the summit. Descent to the Camp-3 reverse way.
Day 28	Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation in ABC.
Day 29	Descent to the base camp. 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Days 30,31	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 32	Transfer to Osh (lunch stop in "Taldyk" intermediate yurt camp). Hotel accommodation ** BB. Optional excursion to holy Sulaimon Hill and cave museum.
Day 33	Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 34	Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Costs (full package): for an offer!

Included: visa support for China, visa registration, meeting/seen off and transfers in Bishkek (Tashkent), all transfers and flights according the programme, camel caravan for carrying the gear to Muztag Ata BC and return (1 camel carries 80 kg for 2 persons) , meals on Subashi- BC trek and on return, *** DBL BB hotel accommodation in Bishkek (Tashkent), ** in Naryn and Kashgar (yurt accommodation in Naryn is possible!), all permits and local fees, services in Onion Glade BC: full board in BC and ABC: tent accommodation (2 persons tents) and 3 time a day hot meals, toilet, cloak room and sauna in BC and ABC, dining/rest yurt in BC and ABC, electricity in BC and ABC, medical aid in BC and ABC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC and ABC, rescue rangers team registration, services for Muztag Ata part: FB accommodation in BC (2-persons tents accommodation, dining tent and kitchen utensil, cook service, 3 time a day hot meals), all the local staff (incl. liaison officer) supply (meals, wages, insurance, gear), city tour (transfers, tickets, guide) in Kashgar (may be changed for your wish with 1-day yurt stay in Subashi), guide-interpreter for the entire trip.
Not included: Travel to and from Bishkek (Tashkent), visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters.

Cost (full guided climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide.

Cost (all inclusive climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide and expedition leader, porterage, climbing food and fuel.

Options (all packages). The start/end point can be changed with Tashkent. Visa support for Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent (from * to *****), SGL accommodation, extra transfers in Bishkek and Tashkent, additional excursions (Sulaimoni Hill in Osh is recommended), climbing guide and porter service, radio communications (walkie-talkie), gasoline and butane gas ) for stoves, special climbing food supply, gear rental, additional days in BCs.

Tailor-made trip. We can offer you any personalized variant of the tour with any set of services for your choice! Just us!