Tien Shan: In the shadow of Khan Tengri and Pobeda: 5000+ and 6000+ peaks climbing, from Almaty.

See also: Khan Tengri (North) from Almaty, Khan Tengri (South) from Almaty and Khan Tengri (South) from Bishkek.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Saryjaz Range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: medium to difficult (need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear).
Season: July-August, best time - from July, 15 to August, 25
Tours to join: Chapaeyv Peak (NEW!) July, 28 - August, 10; Karlytau expedition (full guided + all logistics) July, 19 - 31; Przhevalsky + RGO (Russian Geographic Society) + 8 Female Climbers - upon inquire (NEW!), Hidden Peak (Peak Voennyh Topografov) - upon inquire.

Important notice (for those who have problems with the insurance for Kyrgyzstan): the climbing insurance is now available locally in Almaty for EUR 4 p/day.

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

Many newbee climbers dream for the ascent on 7000+ peaks, and many of them - on Khan Tengri especial. But for these ascents one must have previous climbing background, including techical and high altitude (5000+ at the least) ones. We offer some very nice 5000+ peaks in Khan Tengri North neighbourhood which you can climb in joint team with the support of an experienced climbing guide/coach, with all the logistics included. The only you have to bring is the set of personal gear (ask us for a list!). After this expedition you can proceed on Khan, Pobeda or whatever you want!

The list of these 5000+ peaks includes Chapayev Peak (NEW! Climbing the North Summit 6150 m is the part of Khan Tengry North expedition but now we offer this peak as separate climbing event); Karly Tau (5450 m), Kazakhstan (5761 m), Bayankol (5791 m) and the 3d highest summit of Central Tien Shan - Pik Voennyh Topografov (Military Topographers Peak), 6873 m. The ascent routes on these peaks are laid basically along the flat glaciers with crevices and snow ridges, requiring the minimum skills of using crampons, ice-axes and ropes.

We offer 3 fixed dates expeditions, the 14-days Chapayev Peak, 12 days full guided Karly Tau, 16 days unguided "3 summits at once!" and free agenda Military Topographers Peak:

Variant 1. Chapayev Peak North Summit (6150 m), 14 days. Fixed dates: July, 28 - August, 10.

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Acclimatization day. Acclimatization ascent to Bas Karkara Peak, 4059 m.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 4-11	Ascent to Chapayev Peak in expedition style. Beautiful views to the North Face of Khan Tengri Peak and other peaks of Tengri Tag Range - Przhevalskogo Peak (6350 m), Marble Wall (6400 m), Russian Geographical Society Peak (6330 m), Karly Tau (5450 m), Kazakhstan (5670 m), Bayankol (5791 m), Semenova (5618 m) etc. Ascent along the Northern Ridge using fixed ropes up to Camp-2 (5500 m, situated on a wide flat plateau). Then, on a assault day, you climb few hours without the loads along fixed ropes up to Northern Summit 6150 and descend to Camp 2. Those who feel better can try Chapayev Peak Main Summit at 6371 m.
Day 12	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC.
Day 13	Drive to Almaty. Hotel accommodation.
Day 14	Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (fixed dates package): us for an offer! (no group size limit!)
Included: meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty; interpreter’s service, staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast, fixed ropes.
Not included: personal climbing gear, insurance, food and fuel away from BC (Note: you will have 1-2 hrs prior to daparture to Karkara for shopping in Almaty. Some stuff, including gas stoves, gas cartidges, assault tents, ropes are available for rent in BC)

Options: climbing guide and porters service, gear rental; accommodation in Almaty (*** to *****). Arrival and departure point may be changet to Bishkek.

Variant 2. Karlytau (5450 m), 12 days. Fixed dates: July, 19 - 31.

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Acclimatization day. Acclimatization ascent to Bas Karkara Peak, 4059 m or Krugozor Peak (3550 m).
Day 3	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 4-8	Ascent to Karly Tau Plateau. Beautiful view to the North Face of Khan Tengri Peak and other peaks of Tengri Tag Range - Przhevalskogo Peak, Shatry Peak, Saladina Peak etc. Ascent along the plateau (intermediate camp-4600 here!) to the Pass of Sary Jaz Pass and further up along the snow ridge to the summit. Descent the reverse way (see climbing map 1 and map 2).
Days 8-10	Spare days for a case of bad weather.
Day 11	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Return to Almaty.
Day 12	Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (fixed dates package): us for an offer! (no group size limit!)
Included: meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast, experienced climbing guide service (+ assistance guides for each 3-4 climbers), 2-and 4-person assault tents, ropes, climbing food and fuel, stoves, cooking utensil.
Not included: personal climbing gear, insurance, accommodation in Almaty.

Options: climbing porters service, accommodation in Almaty (*** to *****). Arrival and departure point may be changet to Bishkek.

Variant 3. Pik Voennyh Topografov (Military Topographers Peak, Hidden Peak, 6873 m), 19 days.

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Acclimatization day. Acclimatization ascent to Bas Karkara Peak, 4059 m.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 4-16	Ascent to Military Topographers Peak. Approach from BC to the upper part of Zvezdochka Gl., than ascent to Chon Teren pass (5500 m) then climb to the summit on Northern-Western spur. Fantastic views on Pobeda wall.
Days 17-18	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Return to Almaty.
Day 19	Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (fixed dates package): us for an offer! (no group size limit!)
Included: meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.
Not included: climbing gear, food and fuel, climbing guide; insurance.

Options: experienced climbing guide and climbing porters service, gear rental, climbing food and fuel. Arrival and departure point may be changet to Bishkek.

Variant 4. Przevalsky (6360 m) + RGO (Russian Geographic Society) (6270 m) + 8 Female Climbers (6100 m) , 16 days.
Itinerary:

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (unguided fixed dates package, min. group size 2-3 persons): us for an offer!
Included: meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.
Not included: climbing gear, food and fuel, climbing guide; insurance.

Options: experienced climbing guide and climbing porters service, gear rental, climbing food and fuel. Arrival and departure point may be changet to Bishkek.