Tien Shan: Khan Tengri - The Lord of the Sky, North side. 24 days, from Almaty.

See also: Khan Tengri (North) from Bishkek, Khan Tengri (South) from Bishkek and In the shadow of Khan Tengri: 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Tengritag range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult (5A UIAA, a bit more difficult than from South side, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear).
Season: July-August, best time - from July, 21 to August, 13
Tour to join: July, 08 - August, 05 and July, 22 - August, 14 for programme Variant 1; July, 16 - August, 05 and August, 02-22 for programme Variant 2; July, 23 - August, 05 and August, 02-14 for programme Variant 3. Full guided climbing + all logistics joint group (Var. 4 below) - July, 22 - August, 14 and July, 29 - August, 22.

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from North Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering, a bit more difficult than from South side) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma.

NEW in season-2021: new shorter programmes - besides of standart 24-days programme with 2 acclimatization climbs - up to 5500 m and 6150 m, we offer shorter itineraries for those who got some acclimatization before: 20 days with one up to 6150 m acclimatization climb (ok for those who already climb 5000+) and 14 days - for those who got 6000+ - good for Snow Leopard programme. Also: snow caves (10-persons each) on Chapaev peak spur at 6,100 m (Camp-3) and on the Western Col (6,000 m). It may help you to save the power, decreese the weight of your backpack and allows advanced climbers to climb from Chapayev peak to assault camp-6400 in one day! You can rent pre-installed 2-person tent in Camp-1, Camp-2 and Camp-3! Local insurance is available! Duty rescue rangers at high camps for your safety!

Itinerary variant 1/4 (Standart programme, 24 days for those who has no previous acclimatization on 5000+, /4 - full guided + all logistics fixed dates):

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Visit supermarket to buy food for climbing. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Days 2,3	Acclimatization days. Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 4	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 5	Acclimatization day.
Days 6-17	Climbing to Khan Tengri summit along the Chapaev Peak and Western Col route (see climbing map). The intermediate camps are at the following heights: Camp 1 at 4700 m, Camp 2 at 5500 m, Camp 3 at 5900 m and Camp 4 at 6400 m. Our guides usually fix ropes at the most difficult places of the route (5200-5500 m, 5700-5900 m, and 6200-6750 m).
Day 18	Day of rest.
Days 19-21	Spare days for the case of bad weather etc.
Day 22	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 23	Return to Almaty. Hotel accommodation (***DBL, BB).
Day 24	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Itinerary variant 2 (20 days for those who has previous acclimatization on 5000+):

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 3	Acclimatization day. Consultations and preparations for climbing.
Day 4	Climb up to C1 (4700 m).
Day 5	Climb up to C2 (5500 m).
Day 6	Climb up to the N summit of Chapayev Peak (6150 m) and descent to BC.
Days 7,8	Rest at BC.
Day 9	Climb up to C1 (4700 m).
Day 10	Climb up to C2 (5500 m).
Day 11	Climb up to the N summit of Chapayev Peak (6150 m) and descent to C3 (5900 m).
Day 12	Assault attempt omn the summit ok Khan Tengri (7010 m) and descent to C3 (5900 m).
Day 13	Descent to C2 (5500 m).
Day 14	Descent to BC.
Days 15-17	Spare days for a case of bad weather.
Day 18	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 19	Return to Almaty. Hotel accommodation (***DBL, BB).
Day 20	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Itinerary variant 3 (14 days for those who has previous acclimatization on 6000+):

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 3	Acclimatization day. Consultations and preparations for climbing.
Day 4	Climb up to C1 (4700 m).
Day 5	Climb up to C2 (5500 m).
Day 6	Climb up to the N summit of Chapayev Peak (6150 m) and descent to C3 (5900 m).
Day 7	Assault attempt omn the summit ok Khan Tengri (7010 m) and descent to C3 (5900 m).
Day 8	Descent to C2 (5500 m).
Day 9	Descent to BC.
Days 10-11	Spare days for a case of bad weather.
Day 12	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 13	Return to Almaty. Hotel accommodation (***DBL, BB).
Day 14	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itineraries of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (variant 1, full package): $2590 per person. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing AND have no 5000+ acclimatization.
Cost (variant 2, full package): $2490 p/pax. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing AND have no 6000+ acclimatization.
Cost (variant 3, full package): $1990 p/pax. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing AND have 6000+ acclimatization.
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.

Cost (variant 3, full guided climbing): . This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing. us for an offer! No group size limit! Limited offer!
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, experienced climbing guide service, weather forecast.

Not included (all variants): Travel to and from Almaty, visa expenses, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support (copies of insurance are required!), food away from BC.

Not included: Travel to and from Almaty, visa expenses, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak. Descent to North side (on the ascent path) can be changed with descent to South side (much easy!) with further helicopter flight to Akkol BC from the South Inilchek BC. Transfer to and from Bishkek from Almaty, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), SGL hotel accommodation (+$35) transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, medical service in BCs, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs ($45 p/day), special food for climbing (ask for the list!). If you change the arrival point to Bishkek, you can order special pre-departure acclimatization trip in neighbour Ala-Archa gorge (see below).