Pamir: Communism (Somoni) peak climbing. 17/24/31 days, from Dushanbe.

Region: Tadjikistan, Pamir, Academii Nauk (Academy Of Sciences) range
Activity: mountaineering
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 2 nights hotel accommodation, 14/21/28 nights at tents.
Season: July-August. Fixed dates for charter helicopter flights Jirgital-BC-Jirgital: July 15, 24; August, 5, 14, 26; September 4, 15
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( for details)!
Special offer: 1 day Moskvina Glade trekking; 7 days Mosvina Glade + Fortambek Gl + Walter Gl trekking ( for details)! NEW!
Special offer: Lenin peak from the South side - 1 week side trip from the Moskvina Glade BC. Available upon the group request. us for details! NEW!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

Communism Peak (renamed to "Ismoili Somoni") - the highest mountain of Tajikistan and former USSR - is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. Discovered by Tadjik Complex Expedition (leader - N.P. Gorbunov) in 1932. First ascent (East Ridge) - Sept. 3, 1933, Eugeny Abalakov and Nikolay Gorbunov.

The mountain's name has an interesting and very politized history. The 1st name was Pik Garmo until 1933, then it was changed to Stalin Peak after the current leader of Soviet Union. If you take a look at the area's map, the surrounded names are suited the Uncle Joe: NKVD and Beriya (after the predessor of KGB and it's bloody leader) glaciers and so on. In 1962, after Nikita Khrustcev took over the ortodox stalinists in Politburo, it was renamed to Communism Peak. After the collapse of USSR, in 1998 it was next time changed to Ismaili Somoni (Ismail Samani or Ismoil Somoni), but so far the peak is widely known as Communism 'cause not very much people know who the great guy Somoni is (in fact, it is believed he was the foundator of ancient Tadjik state).

Communism Peak is a huge mountain looks like a giant heavily glaciated wall, despite it rising above a dry, barren region. The common way (via Borodkin Spur and Dushanbe Peak) lays through interesting natural phenomena: Pamirskoye Firnovoe Plato (PFP, Pamir's Neve Plateau)- neve and snow-covered flat ground of a size of few football stadiums, rised to the altitude of about 6,000 m! Climbing Communism peak is real mountaineering adventure involving full set of mountainering (mostly ice) gear and it needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. It is good idea to climb Lenin or Korjenevskoy peak as a preparation for Communism peak (see corresponding chapters).

Base camp for Communism (Somoni), Korjenevskoy and Lenin peak South is situated on a alpine meadow in the upper part of Fortambek gorge. The facilities include:

• Stationary dining room (cafe) with 80 seats – ideal cozy place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, DVD player, chess, checkers and backgammon;
• Frame tents (2 persons per tent) put upon the wooden pad with mattresses and electricity;
• Shower/sauna;
• City version of WC – it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror;
• Cloak-room;
• Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced reanimation doctor with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;
• Volleyball play-field;
• Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;
• 3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years (vegetarian meals and personal order meals are possible);
• Internet access via Wi-Fi and satellite phone;
• Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; sell and refilling of gas canisters.

Itinerary (longest version - 31 days, shorter versions 17/24 days are available- ):

Day 1	Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.
Day 2	Transfer to Jirgital (8-10 hrs, minibus). Hotel or GH accommodation.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to the Moskvina Glade BC.
Day 4	Day of rest.
Day 5	Preparation day.
Day 6	Acclimatization climbing of Vorobiov Peak (5685 m), to the Camp-5300. Another option: Peak Chetireh (Peak of The 4th), 6230 m.
Day 7	Ascent to the summit of Vorobiov Peak. Descent to BC.
Day 8	Day of rest.
Day 9	Preparation day.
Day 10	Climb the Borodkin Spur up to the Camp-1 (5300 m). See route description.
Day 11	Climb to the Camp-2 (5800 m).
Day 12	Climb to the Camp-3 (PFP, 6100 m) and descent to the Camp-2.
Day 13	Descent to BC.
Day 14	Day of rest.
Day 15	Preparation day.
Day 16	Assault attempt. Climb to the Camp-1 (5300 m).
Day 17	Climb to the Camp-2 (5800 m).
Day 18	Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 19	Climb to the Camp-4 (assault camp, North slope of Dushanbe Peak, 6900 m).
Day 20	Ascent of the summit (7495 m) and descent to the Camp-4 or Camp-2.
Day 21	Descent to the BC.
Days 22- 29	Additional days in case of bad weather.
Day 30	Helicopter flight to Jirgital and transfer to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 31	Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Dushanbe.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (full package): $2960 per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, transportation Dushanbe-Jirgital-Dushanbe (minibus), flight Jirgital-Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person free, $10 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights hotel accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, ***), 1 night GH accommodation in Jirgital FB, all local fees, full board in BC: tent accommodation (2-3 person tents w/wooden floor and electricity), 3 time a day hot meals, high altitude food; toilet, sauna 2 times, hot shower 4 times and cloak room service, medical consultations and 1st aid medical service in BC, guide-consultant and iterpreter in BC, internet via Wi-Fi.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, climbing guide and porters service.

Cost (light package): $2760 per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, transportation Dushanbe-Jirgital-Dushanbe (minibus), flight Jirgital-Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person free, $10 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights hotel accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, ***), 1 night GH accommodation in Jirgital FB, all local fees, services in BC: tent accommodation (2-3 person tents w/wooden floor and electricity), toilet and cloak room service, medical consultations and 1st aid medical service in BC, guide-consultant and iterpreter in BC, internet via Wi-Fi.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters service.

Options. You can combine climbing of Communism Peak with climbing Korjenevskoy (Korjenevskaya) Peak (7105 m) and Lenin peak from the South (7134 m)! The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Direct flight from Dushanbe to BC and return (see timetable on the very top). Visa support, hotel and room accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), meeting/transfers in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions, tent or hut accommodation (2-4 person tents and huts) and meals in BC, (including full board option), sauna and hot shower in BC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and voice sat communications, bar, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, gear rental, single supplement (ask us for the price-list!).

Lenin peak (7134 m) from the South side (NEW!)

Cost: us for an offer!

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