(1935 m) -
is a valley Shamony on the hight 1035 m between the great Monblan
Massife hight of which is 4807 m, and the Egui Ruzh Massife.This
is a fantastic place from which the wonderful view on beautiful peaks
of Alps can be seen. 12 rope stations on four slopes of the valley make
mountains easy accessible, and for skiers -vast untouched snow
on different hight and on different taste. Shamony - is one of those
places, coming to which you want to stay for erternity there or to come
again and again.It has united ununited in this valley: a city fuss with
plenty of curious tourists and untouched deep nature.
We arrived to Shamony thanks to Jan Clodt
Marme, to the presedent of French Mountaineering Federation now. In
summer winning the first and the second places on the Start
Championship which took place in Shamony, so Jan Clodt invited
us to the National guide school.
There is no purpose to compose plans as
life makes its alterations. We wanted to go on the northern Grande Joras
wall, but snow has covered not only peaks, but also all approaches,
so it was difficult to make our way to them. Snow was growing on the
streets roofs of houses and cars like as on yeast.Our actions were chained
by 1.5 m snow, we have to be satisfied with boring trainers.
Tempting two-seated aparments with a shower and the delicious cookery
can stop everyone.
-Oda to cheese
and to wine -
French adore not only the tasty, but delicious food. France - is the
only country in the world where there are the Academy of cookery
and the Academy of wines.
Wines- the pride of France and its national
property. An average French drinks 80 litres of wine and eats 22 kg
of cheese a year. Athough "drinks" and "eats" words don't reproduce
that trembling French altitude to food. There are more then 400
sorts of cheese in France today. As wine is the essential part
of France as cheese. It is a dainties, the God's food without which
the cookery can't exist. Not one serious dinner or supper can't
be prepared without cheese on a desert ( with a quantity of 7 sorts),
saying nothing it is used in various hot meals. You can eat cheese,
drink a glass of wine every day and can't be repeated. A wonderful country!!!
Two teams with one day difference rushed
on the eastern Grand Capucin wall (3838 m) at the first interval
of foul weather. This is a picturesque sheer peak-sattelit in the Monblane
Massife, and the one where you can climb not be afraid of blocking
up with an avalanche. By the state of snow in mountains the avalanche
danger was maximum.
were going by logical crack between two complicated routes "direct"
and "water and gas on the each floor".Our friends from Ekaterinburg
were climbing to the right of us on 100 m. We had to hurry, we
were informed 3 days later would be foul weather.
3 days are not much time for an ascending
in winter.Short time and cold required the maximum property from climbers.
3 days later were given a bad weather forecast. After a not long approach
by skis under a wall from a rope station, we have wear quickly and began
to climb. For the first evening we had time to climb on one rope.We
have hung a platform- a wall tent and have spent a night just
on the wall. The second day of sheer wall and of a well crack have brought
some more 3 ropes of a new route. The crack has brought us under a huge
cornice from which a plate stratumed as a vast shelf has sticked
in a metre from a roof. The night-sleeping was exotic on that plate
ina huge niche.
Next morning we have spent almost a half
a day to find an exit under the cornice. And " pendulums were swinging"
-but splits were deaf, and à cornice was huge, so
that legs didn't touched walls. With the help of sky-hooks ( small
hooks for going on micro-beley) and spits got over the cornice. This
is a fly over the border of a precipice. There is one wrong action and
you are flying (of course on a rope).
You ought to get over everything again.
The high concentration of effort, actions are slow and it seems everything
is standing still. It is continueing for 10 minutes, but by vertical.
There is a crack at last where we can organize a normal insurance and
to take a rest. But the route doesn't to make surprises. Spare climbing
at -27 °C, in huge boots and dressed as a cabbage -
isn't an easy job. The foul weather will not wait. There is a punctual
weather forecast in France. With all equipment of 10 kg of weight and
hung on the belt, I climbed into a crack of a man width and on a friction
as a lizard was moving up.With hard I have climbed out of it on a small
"shelf" where we have met our third night. A picturesque sunrise and
not worse clouds on the horizon prevented in the evening the weathwer
has spoiled. As somehow we moving fast - 3 ropes a day - we couldn't
have time to climb to a peak. It was snowing much.It was staied 1.5
rope. But to climb was dangerous. We remained it till the morning. There
was the 4th night at the wall.
In the morning a little calm let us climb
at the top, but we couldn't see beauties there. Frog and snow have made
us to climb down. The strong wind was delaying us on the approach down
and swinging us on various directions. A tent like a sall was swinging
by the wind trying to fly into the sky.
Having climbed down the top we have got
lost our way in a valley. Deep fog, strong wind, snow have been testing
us for three days on our way back. We have been looking for a way back
to the rope road for three days.Having stand in the morning we have
been dressing, going to nowhere on glaciers till the very evening until
darkness for three days. We were spending nights sleeping- and then
- from very beginning. We have been fighting for life without food for
three days. Our sleeping bags and down jackets turned into small frozen
lumps and didn't warm. To the end of the third day as a mirage, we have
seen the station. Without any energy, with hard, till the belt of snow
we, as ships cleaving white frozen waves, have reached alive to
the civilization, to people.
We were met as heroes. Everybody tried
to photograph, to make a video, to take the autograph. All covered with
snow, with frosted faces we became sights. Having come down the town
we came to know there was sent an expedition to look for us from the
Italy side today. It is good have finished well.
A great quatity of snow, the great avalanche
danger didn't let no one team to climb up. Two Russian teams were the
only made not only an ascent but two new routes with beautiful names
"Winter voyage" and "Russian winter".
Every year in the end of February the
French Federation of Mountaineering awards the prize "A golden ice-cutter"
for the best ascent of a year. This is a recognition of all world mountaineer's
achievments. It is a show and à holiday. This year two Austrians
were awardedby this reward for the ascend on Himalaya Shagar(Indian
Himalaya). It is pleasant there were two Russian mountaineers on Vagiratky
and on Changbeng among all nominantes. Last year "The Golden Ice-cutter"
was given to Russian mountaineers from Ekaterinburg for their problem
wall Makala (Himalaya).
At the moment Russian mountaineers are
known about themselves by serious ascends, despite of financial difficulties.
The Russian mountaineers achivments confirms Russia is still a power
State with strong potential possibilities.
Thanks to the French Mountaineering Federation,
to the Mountaineering Federation of the c. Omsk and its departament
and also to the financial support of organizations "The Siberian Way",
"Omsk-avia", "The Vertical World", "STREGOR", the Omsk team could take
part in the Russian Mountaineering Championship and to be on the Second
International Mountaineers Meeting.
MUCH TO ALL WHO HELP, WAIT AND HOPE.