- The Big Wall
By Alexander Ruchkin
Pamiro - Alay (or Pamir -
Alai), Turkestan range, Laylayk gorge - the region famous by Peak Aksu
(5355 m), Alexander Block (5239 m), Admiralteets (5090 m),
Iskander (5120 m), Petrogradets (5163 m).
it’s better to say rock towers, formed many thousand years ago by earth
crust moving have walls till 1,5 km. Aksu peak - the greatest dominant
in upper Laylayk valley. Peak Aksu’s North wall (5217 m) must belong
to category “Big wall”. Overfall - 1500 m, route’s length is 1,7
- 2 km.
of night places demands tents - platforms and special wall equipment.
The middle wall climbing by experienced team - 10 days. The difficult
descent down the east ridge
5B difficult remains one more complex climbing, including 28 dulfer
and takes 1-2 days. First climbing of the wall in 1982 by L. Troshinenco
team took 20 days (route ¹ 9).
the North wall includes 16 routes:
- Budyanov 5B /1983/ VI,
6A /1984/ VI, 5.10. A2 (3 climbing)
- Popov 6B /1986/
VI, 5.10, A3 (3 climbing)
- Shabalin 6A
/1994/ VI, 5.11, A3+ (2 climbing)
- Klenov 6B
/1997/ VI, 5.11, A3+ (1 climbing)
- Ruchkin -
Odintsov 6B /1996/ VI, 5.11, A3+ (1 climbing )
6B /1988/ VI, 5.10, A3 (4 climbing)
6B /1989/ VI, 5.10, A3 (4 climbing)
- Antonov 6A
/1997/ VI, 5.10, A3 (2 climbing)
- Kostenko 6A
/1988/ VI, 5.10, A3 (2 climbing)
6A /1982/ VI, 5.10, A2 (9 climbing)
- Klenov 6B
/1996/ VI, 5.11, A3 (1 climbing)
- Pershin 6A
/1988/ VI, 5.10, A3 (1 climbing + variant)
6A /1986/ VI, 5.10, A2 (2 climbing)
- Vasiliev 6A
/1984/ VI, 5.10, A2 (2 climbing)
5B /1985/ VI, 5.9, A2 (2 climbing)
All climbings were made in summer. Three last winters there were tryings
of wall’s climbing.
successful winter ascents made on the north face to Ak-Su:
- 8.12.98 - 22.12.98 by
P. Shabalin, A. Abramov, I. Tukhvatullin. They climbed
route #9 with named "Cold corner" - 6A - 31.12.98.
- M. Pershin &
I. Nefedov/ Route #7 "Chaplinskiy" - 6B.
solo ascents were made before. The North wall (Aksu Peak 5217 m),
was climbed only once by Korean team in 1994 (Troshinenko’s route of
1982) and two Englishmen in 1990 on the dangerous ice after Vasilyevskiy
bastion. There are no solo climbings, but this wall was attracted each
climber. Rock massive is rised above vertically up 1,5 km and streched
on 2 km. The wall consists of firm metamorphosical granites: without
defects, with fluent passages, it support the sky by two beautiful peaks:
snowing (5355 m the main) and rocky (5217 m the North).
exposition of the wall allows to see the sun for some hours in summer
in the after noon. Water falls down increasing falling stones (routes
# 3, 4, 6). All routes are mixed (ice + rock). The weather is not constant
during the whole climbing. It storms for 5 - 7 days. Aksu is the white
Beauty. Snow sticks smooth falling walls. Snow melts during 3 - 4 days.
Nobody must be on the wall this time. You may be taken away. It’s better
to sleep under cornices. The better time for climbings - July, August.
The most dangerous routes on the North wall Aksu are:
Kavunenko route - the dangerous falling stones
because of ruined bastion in upper part;
Popov, Chaplinskey, Shabalin (a danger of falling ice, stones, moving
by water from the crack in the tower part where routes are in the
Ruchkin, Moshnikov lobby is passed early morning. Later a hole was